Horse Manure Composting

Composting horse manure is an environmentally friendly and effective method for managing the waste produced by horses. This natural process transforms organic matter, such as horse manure and bedding materials, into a valuable soil amendment known as compost. Through microbial activity and proper management, what was once considered waste becomes a resource rich in nutrients, capable of enhancing soil health, supporting plant growth, and contributing to sustainable agricultural practices.

The Importance of Manure Management

Effective manure management is crucial for horse owners and farm managers, not just for maintaining a clean and healthy environment for the animals but also for minimizing the impact on the surrounding ecosystem. Improperly managed manure can lead to a host of problems, including unpleasant odors, flies, and the potential contamination of water sources through runoff. When manure is left to decompose without proper control, it produces methane, a potent greenhouse gas contributing to climate change. Composting offers a solution to these challenges by providing a controlled environment for manure decomposition.

Benefits of Composting

  • Soil Health: Compost improves soil structure, increases moisture retention, and enhances the soil's ability to provide nutrients to plants. This leads to healthier plant growth and reduced soil erosion, making compost an invaluable resource for gardeners, landscapers, and farmers.
  • Sustainability: By composting horse manure, we reduce greenhouse gas emissions associated with anaerobic decomposition and prevent nutrient runoff into waterways, protecting aquatic ecosystems. Composting also contributes to waste reduction by recycling organic matter that would otherwise occupy landfill space.
  • Savings: Utilizing compost can significantly reduce the need for chemical fertilizers, offering long-term financial benefits. Additionally, the composting process itself can save money by reducing the costs associated with manure removal services. For those with the entrepreneurial spirit, high-quality compost can also be marketed and sold as a premium product to gardeners and local farmers, creating an additional revenue stream.

This guide aims to equip you with the knowledge and tools necessary to successfully implement horse manure composting in your operation. Whether you are new to the concept of composting or looking to optimize your existing practices, this guide will provide detailed insights into the composting process, management techniques, and practical applications of compost.

Understanding Horse Manure Composting

Composting is a controlled, aerobic (oxygen-requiring) process that transforms organic waste materials into a stable, humus-like substance. This process is driven by the activity of microorganisms, which consume organic matter as food in the presence of adequate moisture and oxygen, breaking it down into simpler compounds. The activity of these microorganisms generates heat, which raises the compost pile's temperature, aiding in the decomposition process and helping to kill pathogens and weed seeds.

  • Bacteria: The most numerous and active decomposers in the compost. They are responsible for the bulk of organic matter breakdown.
  • Fungi and Actinomycetes: Break down tough debris, helping decompose woody materials, fibrous bedding, and other complex organic compounds.
  • Invertebrates: Larger organisms like earthworms and insects also contribute by breaking down and aerating the compost, enhancing the process.

With human help, the entire composting process can be completed in as little as 4-6 weeks.

Composting takes place in three phases:

1. Warm-up

Bacteria rapidly multiply and generate heat, raising the temperature of the pile.

2. Hot Composting

The bulk of the composting process. Microorganisms continue to break down the material. Eventually, the microorganisms will use up most of the readily decomposable waste, temperatures drop, and the composting process will slow.

The specific look and texture of the finished compost depends on what materials are being composted. However, in all cases the finished compost is rich, dark brown or black in color, and the texture will be soil-like after completing the curing process. With horse manure composting, there will be some residual lumps and chunks but testing has proven them to be high in Nitrogen - we think of these as “raisins in our Raisin Bran”. The finished compost will have a pleasant, earthy smell.

At this point, the compost can be placed in large stockpiles to cure.

3. Curing

Curing takes place at lower temperatures, and it is the work of fungus, worms, and other animals. 

Stall waste that has gone through hot composting makes good fertilizer, but the nitrogen and organic matter in cured compost are more stable than in uncured compost. Most gardeners want cured compost because adding this is like giving the garden an extra dose of fertilized soil.

Using O2 Compost’s ASP method, the active phase of composting (warm-up + hot composting) takes approximately 30 days, followed by the curing phase, which takes an additional 30 to 60 days. Compost can be applied to pastures after approximately 45 days and can be sold for use in gardens after about 90 days.

Components of the Composting Process

Carbon : Nitrogen Ratio

Proper Carbon to Nitrogen ratios (C:N) are critical. The ideal proportion of these two elements is about 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen by weight.

Bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms get their energy from carbon, and Nitrogen is required for population growth. When there is little nitrogen, the microbial population will not grow to its optimum size, and composting will slow down. In contrast, too much nitrogen allows rapid microbial growth and accelerates decomposition, but this can create serious odor problems as oxygen is used up and anaerobic conditions occur. In addition, some of this excess nitrogen will be given off as ammonia gas that generates odors while allowing valuable nitrogen to escape. Therefore, materials with a high nitrogen content require more careful management, with adequate aeration or frequent turning as well as thorough blending with a high carbon waste.

The table below presents estimates of the C:N ratios of various compostable materials.



Horse Manure


Leaves and Foliage






Wood and Sawdust


For horse manure composting, mixing used bedding material such as wood pellets and sawdust helps to provide the proper C:N ratio.

Mix your materials together before you dump it into the compost pile. Mixing is required to balance the carbon and nitrogen ratio and distribute moisture throughout the pile, and also to ensure an even distribution of large pores so that oxygen can move freely.


The microorganisms in your compost pile need a moisture level between 50 - 70%. An ideal compost mixture contains 65% moisture.

Too wet, and water will fill the pore space needed for air movement, resulting in anaerobic conditions. Additionally, excess moisture will leach out of the pile, removing valuable nutrients and potentially causing environmental issues.

Too dry and the aerobic bacteria will slow down decomposition and begin to die.

Maintaining a moisture content in the compost pile of >50% is of critical importance. If the moisture content drops much below 50%, the biological process stops and no further decomposition will occur.

Compost should be damp but not dripping. If you squeeze a handful of material only a drop or two of moisture should squeeze out.

The moisture content of fresh horse manure is nearly ideal.

If additional moisture is needed, hose down the manure and stall waste daily before dumping it into the pile.

Keep the pile covered to help maintain proper moisture content. Use a roof, composting fabric or a plastic tarp. This will also prevent valuable nutrients from being washed away and negatively impacting water quality.

Rewetting the pile by sprinkling it from the top / outside is not effective because the outer layer, once it becomes wet, will act as an “umbrella” and it will shed water, not absorb it.

Additionally, if the compost mix gets very dry – <40% moisture content – it will become hydrophobic making rewetting a very difficult chore. The only way to effectively rewet a compost pile is to break it down and thoroughly wet the mix with a high powered hose. This is frustrating, time consuming and it certainly does not meet our objective of reducing our inputs of labor and equipment time.


Oxygen is a crucial component to composting. Bacteria and fungi require oxygen to do their work and break down organic matter.

Composting is an aerobic process, which means it occurs in the presence of oxygen. The air we breathe is about 21 percent oxygen. Compost organisms can survive with as little as 5 percent oxygen. However, if the oxygen level falls below 10 percent in the large pores, parts of the compost pile can become anaerobic (i.e., without oxygen). If the oxygen saturation drops too low, the oxygen-dependent microbes will begin to shut down, and anaerobic microbes will assume responsibility for further digestion. This is accompanied by a noticeable temperature drop. As anaerobic organisms decompose wastes, they produce methane gas, which is an odorless gas, and hydrogen sulfide, which smells like rotten eggs. Because odor complaints are the most common problem at composting sites, maintaining an adequate oxygen supply is critical.

With proper pile size, moisture level, and porosity, fresh air can flow in from the outside of the pile. Natural convection is driven by a chimney effect, with warm air from the center rising out of the top of the pile, and cool fresh air sucked in at the bottom sides. Even so, oxygen will be depleted quickly, and will have difficulty penetrating to the center of the pile, often resulting in an anaerobic core.

With aerobic composting, our goal is to maintain the oxygen level at 8% or greater. By maintaining aerobic conditions, the main by-products are carbon dioxide, water and heat. Conversely, with anaerobic composting, the by-products also include a wide variety of complex, highly odorous chemical compounds. All life forms and organic systems (i.e., composting) produce some odors. However, with aerobic composting, the quality of the odor is often described as “pleasant” and the intensity as “mild”. With anaerobic composting, the odor is often intense and highly objectionable.

Horse manure combined with ample wood shavings or straw is porous and very permeable to gas because of varied particle size. Mixtures of manure and sawdust require a slightly higher degree of management to maintain adequate permeability in the compost bulk. If managed properly, however, sawdust will compost faster than coarser bedding materials.


It is a common misconception that oxygen air added to the pile during turning is responsible for creating aerobic conditions. When air is introduced into an active compost pile by turning, the oxygen level in the pile drops off very quickly—often to less than 1% oxygen content within 30 to 45 minutes. For this reason, “turning the pile” is an ineffective approach to composting.

The goal is to loosen and fluff the material, so it will be more porous and air can move more easily through natural convection.

How often you turn it determines how quickly your compost will be ready to use.

The more often you turn the pile, the faster it will compost. Turning the pile mixes the ingredients, provides oxygen to the microbes, rebuilds the porosity of the pile, and exposes all of the pile equally to the air in the outer layer and to the high temperature in the center of the pile. Turning the pile also eliminates anaerobic organisms that cause foul odors. For faster composting, turn the pile 3 times per week. Small compost piles can be turned in a few minutes with a pitchfork. Larger piles require more labor, or a tractor.

Turning frequency should normally be based on temperature, and should occur whenever temperatures exceed 140° F, or drop below 90°. If the compost is staying in this range on its own, regular tuning can accelerate decomposition by mixing the material and exposing new surfaces. As decomposition proceeds and the compost becomes more stable, frequent turning becomes less important.

If the compost has become anaerobic and smells, turning may stink up the neighborhood. Schedule compost turnings to minimize any negative impacts by considering such factors as wind direction, when people are home, and whether they are likely to be outside or have their windows open.


Aerated static pile (ASP) systems use a fan instead of mechanically turning the pile. This unit requires little handling for several months until the pile is done. A thermostat triggers a blower to force piped air through a pile. The compost does not have to be turned.

This is the reason that O2Compost utilizes Aerated Static Pile Composting. Using an electric blower, we induce airflow through the pile to maintain aerobic conditions at all times. The oxygen stimulates the microorganisms that are already in the mix, and their by-product is heat. In a properly operated compost system, pile temperatures are sufficient to pasteurize the raw material and dramatically reduce offensive odors. High temperatures also destroy fly larvae and weed seeds. This means that the result of this process is safe, high-quality soil enhancement that supports healthy plant growth.


More than just composting: A Process to Further Reduce Pathogens

With aerated static pile composting, the pile temperature must exceed 55oC (131oF) for a minimum of three days to ensure pathogen destruction and to produce a safe product for unrestricted use on pastures and for sale into the community. The pile temperature can be easily controlled by adjusting the airflow into the pile.

When air is first introduced into a compost pile, the micro-organisms that are already in the mix drastically increase their activity and multiply, which causes the pile temperature to rise very rapidly, often to well over 150oF in 24 hours or less. We take advantage of this heat to destroy pathogens, parasites, weed seeds and fly larvae.

However, hotter is not better with composting. Temperatures much over 160oF actually decrease the rate of composting by decreasing the number and diversity of the microbes in the pile. While it may seem counter-intuitive, additional airflow into the pile causes the pile temperature to drop by expelling (displacing) excess heat to the environment. In short, by managing the frequency, duration, and volume of airflow into the pile we are able to optimize the composting process.

With aeration, the increased number and diversity of microorganisms greatly expedites the composting process. With aerated composting, the active phase typically lasts 21 to 30 days and the subsequent curing phase lasts an additional 30 to 60 days.

The heat the beneficial microbes generate can cause the pile to become fairly warm—about 110-160° F. To kill parasites and pathogens, compost needs to reach at least 131° F for at least three days

Decomposition of organic matter by microbes produces heat. The optimal temperature range of your pile should be between 122 and 145 degrees Fahrenheit. These high temperatures will kill pathogens and weed seeds. Don't allow temperatures to rise much higher or the microbes will also die. When the pile reaches 140 degrees, start turning the pile more and remember to keep it moist. The moisture will help keep the temperature from getting too hot.

As the microorganisms are working away, decomposing waste, they generate heat. When temperatures rise above 140° F, the organisms start to die. Turning the pile when temperatures reach this point will prevent overheating, which can result in drastic population fluctuations and odors. As organisms decompose waste, they generate heat. Decomposition is most rapid when the temperature is between 90° and 140° F (32 - 60° C). Below 90° F (32° C), the process slows considerably, while above 140° F (60° C) most microorganisms cannot survive. Compost pile temperature depends on how the heat produced by microorganisms is offset by the heat lost through aeration or surface cooling. During periods of extremely cold weather, piles may need to be larger than usual to minimize surface heat loss.

After an initial high temperature period (of a few days to several weeks), compost pile temperatures will gradually drop. Turning the compost helps airflow by rebuilding porosity, and exposes new surfaces to decomposition, causing temperatures to rise. If temperatures rise above 160° F (71° C), the compost can sterilize itself, killing off the beneficial microorganisms. Turning the compost when temperatures exceed 140° F (60° C) can prevent both these potential problems.

When the temperature drops below 70° F (21° C), the composting process is nearly complete. However, it is also possible that imbalances of oxygen or moisture are causing the pile to cool. If the compost is properly moist, and turning does not cause temperatures to rise, the compost is probably finished.

Temperature monitoring is very important for managing the compost process. By measuring temperatures regularly, you can tell how fast material is composting, and whether there are hot or cold spots in the pile. Turning the compost whenever temperatures get above or below the optimum range will help produce high quality compost in the shortest possible time.


The initial mix of materials controls the composting process and predetermines the quality of the finished product.

The following list provides the target ranges for the five primary parameters.


Reasonable Range


Particle Size

<1” to 3”

<1” to 2”

Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio (C:N)

20:1 to 40:1


Bulk Density

16 – 24 lbs / 5-gallon bucket

20 lbs / 5-gallon bucket

Free Air Space

30 – 65%


Moisture Content

50 – 70%


Preparing for Composting

Before diving into the composting process, assess your specific needs, capabilities, and the resources available to you. This preparation phase lays the groundwork for a successful composting operation by helping you choose the right composting method and understand the setup and management requirements.

Evaluating the Amount of Manure Generated

The first step is to estimate the volume of manure your horses produce. On average, a horse generates approximately 50 pounds of manure daily. This estimate helps determine the scale of your composting operation and the space and resources required.

Considering Space and Location

Identify a suitable location for your composting site. It should be accessible, well-drained, and preferably on a level surface. You will also need access to running water, and electricity if using the Aerated Static Composting method. Consider the proximity to water sources to prevent contamination and the distance from neighboring properties to minimize odor issues. Additionally, think about the ease of access for adding new material and turning or transporting the compost.

Budgeting for Initial Setup and Maintenance

Calculate the initial costs involved in setting up your composting system, including any equipment (like aeration systems for ASP composting or tools for turning the piles), materials (such as bins or covers), and potential modifications to the site (for example, establishing drainage or constructing a base). Also, factor in ongoing expenses related to labor, equipment maintenance, and monitoring supplies.

Choosing the Right Composting Method

  • Traditional Turning Method: Involves manually turning the compost pile. Suitable for small to medium-sized operations, this method requires minimal initial investment but a decent amount of labor.

  • Aerated Static Pile (ASP) Composting: Uses a system of pipes to introduce air into the compost pile, reducing the need for manual turning. While it requires a higher initial investment, it's more labor-efficient and can handle larger volumes of material.

Each composting method has its advantages and disadvantages, depending on your operation's scale, budget, and specific goals. Consider factors like the amount of labor you can dedicate to composting, your budget for initial setup and ongoing costs, and the volume of manure you need to process.

The 3 pile method

Pile 1 is where you add manure and stall waste daily. Pile 2 is actively composting. Pile 3 is in the finishing or “curing” stage. You can construct multiples of any of these stages or piles. To compost and generate heat, each pile should be at least 3 cubic feet—the approximate size of a washing machine. In colder climates, piles may need to be larger in order to generate enough heat.

For a small-scale operation, you would most likely compost in a pile or in concrete or wooden bins. Composting in a bin system is neater, it keeps the materials enclosed and separated and requires less room. A three bin system works well for managing the waste for four or fewer horses. Construct bins next to one another. One bin being active, where freshly collected waste is deposited. The next bin contains the "composting" pile. And the third bin contains the finished product, ready to use. There are many designs available for bin construction but keep in mind that a bin or a pile needs to be at least 3 feet wide, 3 feet tall, and 3 feet long. Piles smaller than this will have trouble maintaining a proper temperature.

Getting Setup

Traditional Turning Method Setup

1. Site Preparation: Choose a well-drained area and, if necessary, lay a base of gravel or to ensure adequate drainage.

2. Pile Formation**: Start by forming a pile with your manure and bedding materials. The pile should ideally be 3-4 feet high and wide enough to retain heat but still allow air to penetrate to the center.

3. Initial Moisture Adjustment: Add water as needed to reach a moisture content that feels like a wrung-out sponge (about 50-70%).

Aerated Static Pile (ASP) Composting Setup

1. Infrastructure Installation: Install aeration pipes at the base of where your compost pile will be. These can be laid out on a gravel bed for drainage.

2. Building the Pile: Place your manure and organic material directly above the aeration pipes, ensuring the pile covers the pipes entirely.

3. Connecting to Air Source: Attach the aeration pipes to a blower system. Ensure the system is set up to provide intermittent air to maintain aerobic conditions without over-drying the pile.

Required Materials and Equipment

Depending on the chosen method, you'll need different materials and equipment:

  • For Traditional Turning: A pitchfork or a front-end loader for larger operations, moisture meter, and possibly a compost thermometer.

  • For ASP Composting: PVC pipes or similar for aeration, a blower system, and potentially a timer to automate the aeration process, along with a moisture meter and compost thermometer.

    • O2 Compost provides complete packages and training for ASP composting.

Design Considerations
  • Accessibility: Ensure the composting site is accessible year-round for adding materials and removing finished compost.

  • Environmental Protection: Consider runoff and leachate management in your design to protect surrounding water sources.

  • Scalability: Design your system with the possibility of expansion in mind, as your composting needs may grow over time.

Step-by-Step Guide to the Composting Process

1. Adding Materials: Regularly add manure and bedding to your pile, mixing them together and adding water until you achieve the proper moisture level before adding them to the pile.

2. Monitoring Moisture and Temperature: Ensure the pile remains damp. Track temperature with a compost thermometer to monitor the composting stages and manage the pile accordingly.

3. Turning or Aerating the Pile: For traditional composting, turn the pile to introduce new areas of the pile to the heat of the inside and improve the porosity of the pile. For ASP, ensure the blower system is functioning correctly to provide adequate aeration.

Monitoring and Adjusting Moisture, Temperature, and Aeration

- Moisture: If the pile is too dry, add water. If too wet, turn the pile to increase aeration or cover it to protect from rain. It is critical to maintain a moisture level over 50%.

- Temperature: A heating phase indicates active composting. If temperatures do not rise, check moisture levels and aeration. High temperatures (above 160°F) may require turning to cool the pile.

- Aeration: Lack of oxygen will slow the composting process and create odors. Ensure the pile is turned regularly and has adequate porosity, or that the ASP system provides consistent airflow.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

- Odors: Usually a sign of anaerobic conditions. Increase aeration by turning the pile or adjusting the ASP system.

- Pile Not Heating Up: Could be due to insufficient nitrogen, too dry or wet conditions, or lack of oxygen. Adjust the C:N ratio, moisture, or aeration as needed.

- Pests: Securely cover and maintain a hot composting phase to deter pests.

Successfully managing the composting process involves careful monitoring and adjustments to ensure the pile remains in optimal conditions for decomposition. Whether you're using a traditional turning method or an aerated static pile system, understanding how to set up and maintain your composting operation is crucial for transforming horse manure into valuable compost.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to compost horse manure?

The composting process can vary in length depending on factors such as the composting method used, the size of the compost pile, environmental conditions (temperature, humidity), and how well the compost is managed (turning frequency, moisture levels). Generally, it takes anywhere from 2 to 6 months to produce mature compost. Aerated static pile (ASP) systems can accelerate the process, potentially reducing the timeline to as little as 3 months, whereas traditional turned piles might fall towards the longer end of the range.

Can I compost horse manure with bedding?

Yes, horse manure is often composted along with bedding materials. Bedding absorbs urine, adding nitrogen to the compost pile, and provides carbon, essential for the composting process. The type of bedding (straw, wood shavings, sawdust) affects the carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio) of the pile. It’s important to adjust the pile's composition as needed to maintain an optimal C:N ratio, generally between 25:1 and 30:1.

How do I know when my compost is ready to use?

Mature compost has a dark, crumbly texture, an earthy smell, and no recognizable feedstock materials. It should not emit a foul odor. You can perform a simple germination test with seeds like radishes or lettuce; healthy seed growth in the compost indicates that it is mature and free of phytotoxic substances. Additionally, the compost temperature will stabilize near ambient outdoor temperatures, indicating that microbial activity has slowed.

What are the best uses for horse manure compost?

Horse manure compost is a versatile soil amendment suitable for gardens, landscapes, and agricultural fields. It can improve soil structure, increase water retention, and supply essential nutrients to plants. Use it as a top dressing for lawns, mix it into garden beds before planting, or incorporate it into potting mixes. For agricultural use, it can be spread over fields before tilling as a natural fertilizer.

Can composting horse manure reduce weed seeds and pathogens?

Yes, properly managed composting processes generate heat sufficient to kill most weed seeds and pathogens. For effective reduction, the compost pile should maintain temperatures between 131°F (55°C) and 145°F (63°C) for a minimum of 3 consecutive days. Turning the pile ensures that all parts of the compost reach these temperatures. However, consistent monitoring and management are crucial for achieving this goal.

Is it necessary to turn the compost pile, and how often?

For ASP systems, manual turning is not required, but monitor the system to ensure it functions correctly.

Turning the compost pile can aid aerobic decomposition, and helps distribute heat and moisture evenly throughout the pile. While the necessity and frequency of turning depend on the composting method, a general guideline for traditional turned piles is to turn them every 1-2 weeks during the active composting phase. More frequent turning can speed up the process.

Can I compost horse manure in winter?

Composting can continue during winter, but the process slows down as temperatures drop. To maintain activity, increase the size of the pile to retain heat better, and cover the pile with a thick layer of insulating material (like straw or a compost cover) to protect it from the cold. Active aeration (in ASP systems) can also help maintain higher temperatures within the pile.

O2 Compost and Aerated Static Pile (ASP) Composting

O2 Compost specializes in Aerated Static Pile (ASP) composting. We offer solutions designed to simplify the composting process for a wide range of people, from small-scale farms to large equine facilities, municipalities, and beyond.

Recognizing that each operation has unique challenges and goals, O2 Compost works closely with clients to develop systems that are not only efficient and effective but also simple to operate and maintain.

Beyond providing physical composting systems, O2 Compost places a strong emphasis on education and training. Clients receive comprehensive guidance on how to manage their composting system effectively, including best practices for adding materials, monitoring the composting process, and utilizing the finished compost. This education ensures that clients can achieve optimal results and sustain their composting operations over the long term.

Support and Consultation

O2 Compost offers ongoing support and consultation services, assisting clients with troubleshooting, process optimization, and any questions that arise during the composting process. This support is crucial for clients to navigate the complexities of composting and achieve success in their organic waste management efforts.

Aerated Static Pile (ASP) Composting: An Overview

ASP composting is a method that accelerates the decomposition of organic waste by actively introducing oxygen into the compost pile. This method is central to the solutions provided by O2 Compost and offers several advantages over traditional composting techniques.

The core of ASP composting is an aeration system, typically consisting of perforated pipes laid at the base of the compost pile, connected to a blower that supplies air. The system provides controlled airflow throughout the pile, ensuring that oxygen reaches all areas of the compost.

This active aeration promotes aerobic decomposition, which is faster and less odorous than anaerobic decomposition. By maintaining aerobic conditions, ASP systems help regulate the temperature and moisture levels within the compost pile, creating an optimal environment for the microorganisms responsible for decomposition.

Advantages of ASP Composting

- Speed: ASP composting significantly reduces the time required to produce mature compost, with some systems producing finished compost in as little as 8 weeks.

- Odor Control: Aerobic decomposition minimizes the production of odorous compounds, making ASP composting ideal for operations located near residential areas.

- Pathogen and Weed Seed Reduction: The efficient aeration and uniform temperature distribution within an ASP system can more effectively kill pathogens and weed seeds compared to traditional composting methods.

- Ease of Use: ASP systems can be designed to minimize labor, with less frequent need for turning the compost pile manually.


We offer five different options that will meet every budget.

Selecting the solution that best fits your needs is simple:

  1. Our Training Program Coordinator will consult with you so we can learn the specifics of your situation.
  2. We prepare a written proposal detailing everything in the Training Program that best fits your needs.
  3. After reviewing and discussing, we will follow up via phone to answer any questions and determine if you would like to move forward.

We can also coordinate a consultation and a site visit with one of our clients in your area. At O2 Compost, we work on your timeline without exerting any pressure to make a sale.

Each of our Training Programs includes four parts:

  1. A detailed design for a system that best fits your needs
  2. An aeration equipment package, including an electric blower, timer, and valves to control airflow to one or multiple bins
  3. A complete training manual that provides background information on aerated composting and prescriptive step-by-step procedures to follow.
  4. Most importantly, technical support. We will guide you through the learning process and never leave you stranded.

We will never charge over the initial payment, even for technical support. Best of all, we GUARANTEE YOUR SUCCESS!

Horse manure management is essential to the health of your land and your horses. Adding a compost system is an affordable and sustainable alternative to other chemically produced products. O2 compost offers different systems suitable to your specific needs. We are happy to consult with you to find the best solution for your horse manure management. Owning horses is a fun and rewarding experience. Cleaning up the manure they produce is not so fun, but can be rewarding. Contact us today to set up a consultation!